January 24, 2012

Whiskey Review: Tuthilltown Manhattan Rye

I love rye whiskey. I can appreciate a good scotch, and I love a well-made bourbon. But rye, in my mind, stands right in between the two as a perfect nighttime sipper. Rye lacks the sweetness of bourbon and the harshness of scotch; yet it has a spicy character. Not to mention, it is an essential spirit for making a proper Manhattan--one of my favorite cocktails. The spiciness of the rye beautifully offsets the sweetness of the vermouth.

In our house, the go-to rye for cocktails is typically Rittenhouse. At just over $20 a bottle, it can't be beat. However, when I haven't been able to get my hands on a bottle of Rittenhouse, Sazerac serves as a spicier backup (which works perfect in a Sazerac!).

However, when I want to sip on a rye for the evening, I usually turn to my two favorites: Van Winkle or Templeton.

I've wanted to try Tuthilltown Manhattan Rye for quite some time, and the folks there were kind enough to provide me with a sample to review.

Appearance: Light copper, burnt orange

Nose: Fabulous and unique nose. Floral, but with a bit of characteristic rye spice. More caramel, brown sugar, and maple syrup than expected. Vanilla. Almost leathery.

Taste: Initially light flavor, but thick and oily. Strong and spicy on the mid-palate with an almost scotch-like smokiness.

Finish: Spicy, long finish. Very smooth. Tastes a bit young (not in a bad way), but not harsh.

Other: Beautiful packaging. The small, apothecary-style bottles are attractive and vintage, and the labels speak "prohibition-era." A bit pricey at $50 for a 375ml bottle, but definitely worth a splurge for special occasions. Can't wait to try it out in a Manhattan next time I get a fresh bottle of Carpano Antica! Definitely unlike any rye I've tasted. Difficult to compare to anything else. An excellent product.

Score: 8.5/10

January 6, 2012

Tuthilltown Barrel Aged Negroni


You could probably tell by the name of this blog, but I'm really interested in barrel-aged cocktails. My fascination started early last year with a trip to The Aviary in Chicago where I was able to taste one. I had first heard about the process of barrel-aging cocktails in a video made by The Aviary’s Craig Schoettler, and I only later discovered that Jeffrey Morgenthaler had been aging cocktails at Clyde Common in Portland for quite some time (see his article on barrel-aging here and articles about him here and here)
That night at The Aviary, I ordered an aged Martini flight. The first was a fresh-made 3:1 Martini of Plymouth gin, Noily Prat vermouth, and oranges bitters; the second was the same cocktail aged 2 months in an oak barrel; and the last was the same but aged 4 months. Each Martini was amazing. While the fresh Martini was elegantly balanced and made to perfection, its older brother and sister had a depth of flavor that was lacking from the traditional Martini. After that night, I was determined to learn more about aging cocktails, and I was insistent on trying to reproduce the efforts of The Aviary at home. In fact, that determination was the catalyst for starting this blog.
In August I used some of my birthday money to buy a small 2 liter oak barrel from Copper Fox Distillery. I was thrilled to let the included white Rye spirit season the unused barrel, and I looked forward to aging a Negroni in it once the barrel was ready. The problem I had, however, is that liters of Negroni is about 1 bottle each of gin, vermouth, and Campari, which would basically clean out my supply of all three of those liquors. I thought this was a bit risky for an experiment. Because of this, I’ve been hesitant to use the oak barrel for aging a cocktail since I don’t want to pour $50+ down the drain because of a mistake.
And that brings me to the purpose of this post. As I was putting together my Christmas wishlist, I came across a brilliant product from Tuthilltown Spirits: the barrel-aged cocktail kit. Anyone who has read about cocktail aging has doubtless come across Tuthilltown’s name, and anyone familiar with whiskey knows of their excellent, small-batch products. So, when I saw that I could spend $10 to get a Tuthilltown bottle with a piece of charred barrel stave inside of it, I was intrigued. Since the bottle included in the kit is only 375 ml (about 13 oz.), it would only take 4 oz. each of gin, vermouth, and Campari to experiment with an aged Negroni. I was sold. My wonderful wife purchased the kit for me at Christmas, and upon opening it, I almost immediately went to the liquor cabinet to put together a Negroni for again. I combined 4 oz. each of Beefeater gin, Dolin sweet vermouth, and Campari, and waited 10 days (this is another great feature of the small bottle; rather than having to wait 2 months for the cocktail to mature in the barrel, it was perfectly ready after a week and a half!). 
I decided that it was time to sample the Negroni this past week, and I was delighted with what I tasted. All of the descriptions of barrel-aged cocktails tasting smoother, more well-rounded, softer, and more integrated are spot on. The Campari was tamed, the vermouth a bit sweeter, and the gin softened. Put simply, it was the best Negroni that I’ve ever had.

After transferring the Negroni to another bottle to stop the aging process, I decided that I wanted to make another cocktail to age (that’s what’s so great about this kit! It allows small-scale experimentation). I was debating between a classic Martini and a Vesper and decided on the latter. So, the Vesper is currently undergoing a magical transformation, and I cannot wait to give it a try in a week or so.
I’m definitely going to order a few more of these barrel aging kits from Tuthilltown as well as some of their bottles (at $2 a piece!) in which to put the aged cocktails. Also, I’m thinking about asking the people there whether they’d be willing to sell the barrel stave pieces so that I could simply add a new one to the bottle when I wanted to age a new cocktail. This new product from Tuthilltown has received little press, but I’m sure that it is going to be a big hit in the cocktail world this year, as it allows one competently to enter the world of barrel-aging for a fraction of the price and a smidgen of the time as a traditional oak barrel.
Cheers!